A symbol of eternity and commitment, natural diamonds fascinate by their intrinsic beauty. It can be difficult to understand the subtleties that make up the value and brilliance of this precious stone. Fortunately, there are four essential characteristics, known as the “4Cs” , by which the quality of a diamond can be assessed: Carat, Clarity, Color and Cut. In this detailed guide, we’ll explore each of these characteristics, enabling you to better appreciate and understand the splendor of diamonds.

The first characteristic of the 4Cs, the Carat, is without doubt the most crucial of all, as it determines 90% of the price of your jewel. Carat is the unit of measurement that determines the weight of a diamond.

The term “Carat” is derived from the Carob tree, whose seeds always weigh the same: 0.20 grams. So, for every Carat, there are 0.20 grams. Only 5% of the world’s diamonds are larger than 1.00 carats.

The higher the Carat, the more voluminous and precious the diamond. The relationship between the weight and cut of a diamond is complex, as diamonds of different shapes and proportions can have different sizes and visual appearances, even if they have the same Carat weight. An Oval cut, for example, may appearmore or less elongated, depending on the weight distribution between the yoke (lower part) and the table (upper part).

Carat is only one of the determining factors in a diamond’s value, and must be considered in conjunction with the other characteristics of the natural diamond. The price per carat increases exponentially as the carat weight increases. By sourcing diamonds from the world’s diamond exchanges, the House is able to adapt to each individual’s requirements and budget, as defined in advance during the first meeting.

Diamond clarity refers to the presence or absence of internal or external inclusions and defects. Inclusions are natural imperfections that form during diamond crystallization at extreme depths in the Earth. They can take the form of small cracks, black dots, clouds or other types of markings visible under a microscope.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s most prestigious laboratory, through which the Maison obtains its supplies, has established a clarity scale ranging from “Flawless” (no internal or external flaws visible with a 10x magnifying glass) to “Included” (presence of multiple inclusions visible to the naked eye). The scale comprises six categories: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2), Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) and Included (I1, I2 and I3). Of this 10-level scale, the first 6 are invisible to the naked eye. The impact of these inclusions on the diamond’s appearance can vary according to their size, location and number.

The Emerald cut of our Art Deco model is a transparent shape, favoring clarity over brilliance. For this cut, our gemologists recommend a minimum Clarity SI1.

The purest diamonds are the rarest.

Contrary to popular belief, the Color of a diamond does not refer to a palette of bright colors, but rather to shades of white. A color scale ranging from D (the purest white) to Z (a yellowish hue) is used to classify diamonds according to their whiteness. The most sought-after and valuable diamonds are those in categories D to F, where the color is virtually indistinguishable to the naked eye. During weekly gemmological initiations, professionals offer practical demonstrations aimed at differentiating the subtleties of color under a monochromatic lamp. It’s important to stress that color can be a personal preference, and some enthusiasts appreciate warmer, slightly tinted shades.

The cut of a diamond refers to its shape, proportions and quality of cut. The cut of a diamond refers to the way in which the diamond cutter has shaped and cut the rough stone into a finished gem. The proportions, angles and symmetry of the facets play an essential role in creating a diamond with excellent optical performance.

The cut directly influences the way light reflects through the stone, creating its characteristic sparkle and brilliance. The ideal cut maximizes the reflection of light, giving the diamond a sparkling brilliance. That’s why the cut is so important in the creation of an exceptional diamond.

A scale classifies the 5 levels of cut: excellent, very good, good cut, fair, and passable. The “brilliant” cut, a round shape with 57 or 58 facets, is the most widespread and popular. It was invented in 1919 by the mathematician Tolkowsky according to very precise proportions. However, there are other cuts, such as the princess cut, the emerald cut or the marquise cut, each offering its own unique play of light and sparkle.

The term “triplex diamond” refers to a perfectly cut, polished and symmetrical diamond. Today, the cut is the only 4C criterion resulting from human hands.

Among the 4Cs of diamonds, there’s one that arouses both fascination and debate: Fluorescence. Fluorescence is the ability of a diamond to emit a colored glow when exposed to a short-range ultraviolet light source, such as sunlight or a suitable lamp. This property can vary in intensity, and is classified on a 5-level scale from none to very strong. This characteristic is included in the GIA certificates issued by Amantys.

The presence of Fluorescence in a diamond can have different effects on its visual appearance. Some diamonds may appear brighter or more brilliant when they show Fluorescence, while others may appear slightly hazy or milky.

It’s interesting to note that Fluorescence can have an impact on a diamond’s value. Traditionally, colorless and non-fluorescent diamonds are the most prized and therefore the most expensive. However, there are some connoisseurs who appreciate fluorescent diamonds for their unique appearance and the mysterious glow they give off. Ultimately, personal preference plays a decisive role in the appreciation of a diamond’s fluorescence. Whether you appreciate fluorescent diamonds or prefer a purer look, it’s important to consider Fluorescence as a subjective choice rather than a strict quality factor.

You’ve now mastered the basics of gemmology, the science of natural diamonds. However, there are still so many facets to explore, which we are delighted to share with you, every week, in our diamond laboratories at 5 rue de l’Échelle, Paris 1er and at 4-6 Cours de l’Intendance, Bordeaux 33000.

During an introduction to gemmology, you’ll learn how to assess the quality of a diamond and recognize the criteria that match your requirements. The House’s experts will share their expertise and answer all your questions. At Amantys, our commitment to our customers goes beyond a simple bespoke design. We want to offer you a unique and educational experience that will enable you to make the best choice and find the diamond of your life.

Whether you’re looking for a large diamond, impeccable purity, brilliant whiteness or a cut that maximizes brilliance, the 4Cs are an invaluable guide to choosing the diamond that matches your tastes and expectations. The right choice lies in the right balance, and all you have to do is place the cursor correctly to obtain the best compromise.